Stewart Island

We leave Manpouri and Fiorland behind as we start our convoy to Invercargill a quick stop at the museum and the Isite to book our ferry and we were all set.

The Journey

We head off for Bluff where we will spend the night and get our ferry the next morning. Bluff is famous for oysters I have still never tried one. However its also famous for Paua which are just on the rocks ready to pick. We missed the tide but the guys next to us had some so I get to try them for the first time. They taste good but look wierd.

This would be our first multiday trek and I didnt know what to expect other than sore legs and cool views in the bush. So we tried to pack light. This is not as easy as it sounds when you realise you have to carry a tent, mats, sleeping bags, food, water and thats just your survival stuff.

We tried our best and still managed to find space for fishing gear! Ready to go we jumped on the ferry its choppy but fun and pretty quick.

Welcome to Stewart Island we are now officially at the closest point to Antarticta and its surprisingly warm.

Before we even check into our hostel we are fishing off the pier with Sam who is a pretty good fisherman, compared to me and Chris he is practically professional. I get to use a hand line for the first time and we pick mussels off the pier for bait. The water here is so clear you can see the bottom. I spend more time looking at the water than fishing the more you look the more you see. So many giant star fish.

Suddenly all the fish disapear I dont notice them leave just that the seas looks empty now. The explination swims up to us under the pier in all his glory, a shark!

A local tells me he is a baby seven gill shark (hes still 2meters long thats some baby) Its the first time I have seen a shark up close.

We check into our hostel and before we know it are back for some night fishing the locals tell us we can catch Blue Mokie at night and we hear all the tales of giant mokie that have been wrestled in the moonlight.

The locals are right there are lots of giant blue mokie we just didnt catch any we saw loads and even fed them some bait but they are a clever fish much to clever for me ha ha.

Its a dark night and there is a firey light in the distance and I think I know what it about to happen I have seen this phenomenon before. We settle in to watch a huge orange moon rise like the sun from the horizon its so bright the whole harbour is now light up.

Next morning we get up early double check we have everything we need and set off on our three day adventure into the wild bush of Stewart Island.

Day 1
Spirits are high we are joking and laughing as we walk into the bush our packs dont feel too heavy and its hot very hot. We make it into the bush and start to climb so many birds and insects to see along the way. We only have about 5 hours walking today so its not too bad.

We make camp for the night and set up our tents and sleeping bags its time to try our dry pack rations. Mmm just add water to them and wait 10 mins aparently then you have venison rissotto (you have something I dont know that I could tell you it was venison rissotto)

Looking to explore the camp area we headed to the sea for some fishing Sam being the little ninja he is goes ahead to find a better spot over the rocks Chris and Mandy put the finishing touches to her bow staff/walking stick and I am just taking in the view as I dip my feet in the water.

Sam is victorious and brings back some interesting looking fish, two tiny bait fish and a baracuda. You cant eat baracuda here they have worms but he got stuck on Sams line so we took a look inside.

Off to the camp to cook up the bait fish it was more of a gimick than a meal but worth the night on the beach.

The boys go exploring and Mandy and I sit in camp and chat. We are joined by a Kia beautiful and close the Kia is a cheeky forest parrot that steals your stuff you can build little piles of stones and step back. They are naturally curious so will go to the pile and unpick it to see what you might have burried.

Day 2
Today is the most challenging walking day we have 8 hours of mountains, boggy ground, mud, rocks and trees between us and our camp for tonight.

Quick bite of porridge and we are on our way. My bag feels heavier today so does my legs after yesterday. Climbing through the bush there is so much to see so we stop to play with the birds take photos and have a cracker and cheese lunch on a log to rest. Reading the map I dont think we have come that far but the guys are sure we are almost half way. I'm not sure the map looks like you climb one hill then head to a deep valley before climbing the biggest hill of the day. They all celebrate having conqured the biggest hill of the day but I am not so sure.

We start to go down and down and down some more we are not over the biggest hill yet! We are in the valley, it is next. Steps lead you to the top of the hill so many steps. At the top is an old logging railway and settlement. Finally we have taken on the biggest hill. We head down towards the ocean and tonights camp. We are sleeping on the beach tonight.

Tired and hot we set up our tents and relax. Mandy decides to take a swim in the sea and is chased by a sealion which we all find pretty funny.

That night we are asleep in our tent and war breaks out! Fighting, snuffling and squeeking its a Kiwi war. Kiwi birds are New Zealands national bird. They are nocturnal, shy, brown birds with long beaks. They are hard to see in the wild and by the time I looked out I could see nothing just hear them fighting in the bushes and running around. Stewart Island has the highest population of Kiwi anywhere in New Zealand.

Day 3

Our final day a cold beer and the thought of not having to carry my backpack anymore is waiting for me at the finish line.

Its a shorter day only 4 hours walking so should be ok. We head along the beach before we go back into the forest and round the bays on the way to the finish line. We made it I feel great about what I have achieved and we all celebrate the last few days. One problem we still have 6km to walk back to town not quite over yet. Every km is a hill 500m  up 500m down. Where is the cold beer I'm ready now.

We made it! We get a good meal and a cold beer after the dry ration packs and walking its a welcome change.

Our last night on the island and Sam and Mandy head out kiwi hunting in the rugby ground they see them and can tick of see wild kiwis from the list.

The next day we went to Ulva Island, a bird sancturay island just 10mins away by boat. This is a protected place and the home to some species of bird and plants that have died out on the mainland. We walk through the forest and play with the birds Kia, Yellow Heads (super rare), Fantails, and little birds that if you kick the dirt they will follow you looking for food. Off to the beaches for Waka who will come right up to your hand if you hold it out.

Then back to the boat and Stewart Island for some last minute fishing off the pier and to catch our ferry back to the mainland and Bluff.


This is where Sam and Mandy leave us its been fun having some company but its back to Chris, Norman and me as we look next to the Catlins and Southland.

Wanaka, Queenstown and Fiordland

So we had conquered the west coast now it was time to head in land to Wanaka. The drive to Wanaka, wow! I'm not what you would call a natural driver never in my life have I said oh lets just go for a drive when i knew I would be the driver. But even I was enjoying this one.

The Journey

The road twists and turns through mountains past huge lakes all the way to Wanaka. Every corner is a photo opportunity. There are loads of lookout points to get those famous New Zealand shots of lake Wanaka and plenty to get out and see if you like waterfalls.

We arrived in Wanaka making good time so decided to check out the town and plan our activities for tomorrow. We saw the tree in the lake, great views of the mountains and jumped in a kayak to explore Lake Wanaka itself. There is a little island not far from shore so we jumped out and took a look around.

Wanaka is home to some really awesome walks but when we got there a weather warning of gales and rain stopped us in our tracks so never managed to get out and see any of the tracks. Maybe next time.

After a few days in Wanaka it was time to head for Queentown party capital of the South! Queenstown is a pretty small place and 1000's of backpackers fill every corner. Getting accomodation can be a challenge all year round and you suddenly find yourself in a busy place. A bit of a culture shock after having spent the last few weeks in the deserted west coast.

Winter brings the skiers to Queenstown in their 1000's and in the Summer there is no better place to party so everyone comes for the beer, atmosphere and sun.

The road to Queestown from Wanaka is challenging especially in Norman the Piza Ranges stand between us and a party in Queenstown. Norman huffs and puffs up the huge hills in first gear sometimes eek, but we make it to the top. What goes up must come down.... and it does you start to come down the Piza Ranges steeply with  sharp corners and warning signs to check your breaks at the bottom. We made it my breaks smell a bit burnt but we made it.

We decided to camp outside of the city centre the first night because with big tourisim come big prices!

It was worth it we did a cool walk, starting in the forrest, going round the lake and finishing in this little secluded bay at sunset. New Zealand is a bird paradise, they are protected and have no natural predators so the're pretty friendly and have big voices. We saw Fantails dancing and a Tui meeting (there must have been 6 Tui just singing to each other on the same branch)

Next day we were trying to adjust to the sudden cold, it was so sunny and warm on the coast but now in the mountains its cold until the sun comes up even in the summer.

So having seen some of the nature Queenstown has to offer it was time to party it would be a shame not to since we are here. We park up in the campsite in town I feel the sting in my pocket as I pay for the most expensive camping night of the whole journey.

But it is soon soothed by a beer and some laughs. We hit the town around 7pm and its a Tuesday but the town is still filled with life and drunk backpackers. There is some really cool bars we find the rum bar and try some really nice pineapple rum then off to the whiskey bar for some cocktails followed by a trip to a few bars along the street. We find our last bar of the night live music good atmosphere and we decided to do some open mic ha ha the rum is kicking in then.

We left the bar and headed back to Norman with a quick stop to Ferg Burger it is a Queenstown special and I have heard so much about it from other travellers I am keen to try it. You can queue for hours to get one during the day. But its now about 4.30am and no one is here so jackpot Ill try a Ferg after all when I am here.

Next morning a bit worse for ware I get up and make friends with our neighbours. I have finally found someone with a van older than Norman! 1988 we have a winner (Norman was 1990).

Then we are off again I am kind of poepled out now so time to retreat to the most remote parts of New Zealand Fiordland here we come.

We left Queenstown got stuck in traffic for the first 10km with road works and I knew I wanted out of civilisation for a bit.

Then peace, long roads of nothing but me, Chris, Norman and the mountains. Perfect! We arrived in Te Anau and knew that we had lots of stuff to do here so headed for the Isite to get booked up for activities.

First activity was in Te Anau itself, the glow worms. We jumped in a boat taking us across Lake Te Anau New Zealand's 2nd largest lake after the huge Lake Taupo in the North Island. Most of the lake is surrounded by Fiordland National Park and the views are amazing.

After about 40mins we have arrived at the cave. We get off the boat and walk to the briefing centre where they tell us all about the caves, worms and saftey stuff. Did you know that Glow worms only live for 48hrs after they change from larve to fully grown?

Then we head down to see our little glow in the dark buddies. You walk through caves and see the water rushing though still carving them deeper everyday. From there everyone is told its time for silence as we head deeper to the worms. A little row boat takes you from there its dark and you bump off the walls of the cave but then. Lights thousands of tint lights all around you its pretty cool.

We get time to explore the island while the 2nd group goes in to the cave and then its back to the boat and off to shore.

We have booked Milford Sound for tomorrow and we are really excited but its still 2hrs away and our boat leaves at 8.30 so we're heading up today to spend the night. The tour guide tells us its a dangerous road where drivers have to give it their full attention and its reccomeded you get the bus. But I am determined to drive this road its a must see all on its own never mind the Sound when you get there. Yes even in Norman we drove the notorious Milford Road.

We set off and its a really nice drive the first hour is quite flat and smooth, we took it slow and easy in no rush and wanting to take it all in.

The flats soon gave way to massive hills and sharp corners as we got closer. We stopped for a photo and just admired how big everything was. There is a reason its called one of their most scenic drives.

Then we were at the Homer Tunnel. Man has conquered the mountain! The Homer Tunnel is built through a mountain and is kind like the gateway to Milford Sound. Its steep and dark but a really random thing to drive through. You come down steeply and get the first views of Milford.

We stop off at various points and waterfalls along the way and then we make it to Milford. Its a really nice camp again abit pricey but you do get to spend the night in Milford Sound it doesnt get much more remote that this. The sandflys are a pain but here is the wettest place in New Zealand they are everywhere and hungry!

The next morning we head to the pier to catch our boat to Milford Sound. Its raining pretty hard and that is the best way to enjoy this part of the country the wetter the better!

There are only 4 or so permanent waterfalls in the Milford Sound but when it rains they become thousands our boat takes us under one and we get blasted by the force of the falls. Then we all get to taste some of the water.

Dolphins apear to jump around in the waves of the boat, we see seals on the rocks playing and lots of birds. We get off the boat and into some kayaks to get up close and personal with the Sound for about an hour everything about this place is huge and you feel really small in your kayak against the mountains and waterfalls.

We've seen above the water but what's below to answer that question we head to the underwater observatory to see all the fish and plants under the water its really neat.

Then its back to land and time to take the journey to Manapouri and explore Doubtful Sound.

Its an ongoing debate which is better Milford Sound or Doubtful Sound? Well we planned to find out and do both. Our friends Sam and Mandy joined us for this one a full day out on Doubtful.

It starts with a boat across Lake Manapouri the water is calm and its early so everyone settles in for a cup of tea and bacon roll at the window. Its quite windy on the top deck but that makes it more fun. Then we leave the boat and jump on buses to take us to our next boat, Doubtful Sound is not the easiest to get to.

We drive along New Zealand's most expensive road (where it is can only be reached by boat so getting here with building materials sounds pricey) From there we drive the steepest commercial road in the country I smile when I think how Norman would cope here not well I think. Aparently if a truck meets another car on this hill they have to reverse to the bottom becuase its so steep they need a clean running start to make it to the top.

Then the second boat of the day take us out to the Doubtful Sound its impressive much bigger than Milford but the mountains don't feel as high. We explore all the sound has to offer in the boat taking in waterfalls, seals, dolphins and then out to the open sea. We come back through the heart of the sound and the boat stops all engines are cut as we experience the "Sound of Silence" a minutes silence in the sound is worth it you just kind of breath it all in and feel a million miles from anything.

Then we head back to shore all pretty exhausted after our boat day out. Sam and Mandy have decided to tag along with us for a while as we head to Stewart Island we cant be that bad company after all.

New Zealand's West Coast

No matter who you speak to they may disagree on where is best to travel and must sees but when it comes to the west coast of the South Island eveyone knows that's a must do!

This was the journey

Famous for its rugged beauty you drive the route down the west coast with the Southern Alps on your left and a furious coast line on the right. One mountain meets the next as you snake your way down the highway. The roads are straighter and flatter than I expected, to be fair the roads in the North Island are steeper not what I expected at all.

We had heard that the South was more remote and the West Coast was some of the remotest parts. So we made sure we had supplies and we were set to go. (in most cases you are never more than an hour drive from a town but it feels remote)

We stayed parked in the back of a pub the next night. The owner has some land out the back where they have built showers. There is a pool table in the bar and a lovely owner, next to us one of the sheep is loose so everyone in the pub gets together to make a sheep wall and get him back in his area.

Its just us in the field apart from one other campervan so its really peacefull apart from the bees. A wasp got stuck in my jumper and stung me. There is a big thing right now about saving the bees and I am all for it but has anyone tried to save a bee? I have, its hard they are not the brightest and its a bit like saving a toddler from a hot cooker they are just attracted to danger!

The next morning magic happened mother nature saw us and gave us a surprise. When we woke up what had been a green field had transformed. All the wild flowers had opened at once thousands of them everywhere so colourful. The bees were right! Maybe not so thick after all?


First up on our route was buller. Buller Gorge is home to New Zealand's longest swing bridge (110m). You arrive park up pay your $10 dollars and there's no turning back. Its high and long did I mention high!. Being the scardy cat that I am when it comes to heights it tooks me a bit of courage but I made it across. Well ...after making a family coming the other way turn back because I wouldnt let go of the sides to let them past.

Then we set off into the gorge, we walked round the forest tracks, got covered in gold from the water, you get covered in lots of little specks when you put your hands in the water from all the mining, and saw the jet boat take off.

Its that season again here where we had a familiar choice to make do we take our chances that the weather man has it wrong or get out of the way of an approaching cyclone. We went to Westport and it answered our question. Speaking to locals the storm last week was cyclone Fehi (our 24hrs rain in Able Tasmin that I mentioned) the place is wrecked people have lost their homes and the thought of another one just around the corner scares everyone here. So we made the smart choice to get away from the cyclone.

The good news about cyclones is you get loads of warning so even thought we knew it was coming we still had a solid week before it technically hit land the weather man at this stage is not sure exactly where but roughly upper South West of the Island. So were in good shape for a bit. This storm is a bit of a bruiser and has already crashed its way through Tonga, Samoa and Fiji giving it the title worst storm in a generation so this one ill give a little bit of respect and step aside to let it pass me by.

Westport is a small town with a road to the moria caves and operara arches they are pretty cool to crawl around  and explore. We stayed again at a pub with a bit of land at the back the lady was really friendly and there is hot showers and good laughs its a proper locals bar though and everyone brings their dogs

Then with the cyclone clock ticking we hit the road to see more of the coast, this took us to Punakaiki the home of the pancake rocks where the sea is forced through gaps in lime stone rocks to make jets of water and cool noises.

Ticked off the list and off to our next point of interest we headed to find a beach in Barry Town that Chris swears exists with a starfish colony. We are still looking to this day for the beach and the starfish at Barry Town.

We were going to make knifes in Barry Town but when we saw the road already getting repaired from the last cyclone we were pretty sure it was going to be closed after the storm tomorrow.

So officially on cyclone watch we made our escape to Hokitika. I should mention at this point it is clear blue skies, the sun is shining and it really doesnt feel like we are due a storm. Maybe the weather man is talking nonsense after all.

We arrive in Hokitika its a cool little beach town layed back vibe and famous for whitebait pizza, sunset point and glow worms. Its still a nice night if anything getting a bit sticky and humid so we head off to the glow worms. You walk for about 5mins into a forest and they are just there, hanging out, thousands of tiny lights in the bushes all around you. There are people trying to take videos of nothing in the darkness and everyone talks in whispers so we dont frigthen our little lit up buddies.

We head back to the camp. We plan to spend a few days here to let the storm pass and its due in about 24 hrs. The guy behind the desk has a live feed hooked up for updates and its quite funny how everyone talks about it for so long.

The next day we head for town its so small Norman gets the weekend off to rest up and we use our own two feet to walk along the beach and collect pieces of jade we plan to make jewellery  on our looming rainy day.

We explored shops, the kiwi sancturary, petted some more eels and then checked out the wood art along the beach before trying one of the famous pizzas. Then only one thing left on the list sunset point. We head down and you can see the clouds start to roll in dark and heavy against the purple sky. Mount cook is behind us disapearing into the dark.

We start to feel the first spots of rain and we head back. Next day its here the news is nothing but cyclone stories of where is has hit land we were right to move out the way Able Tasmin is hit square on the picutres of where we just camped in Takaka are everywhere.

We just got a bit of rain not even any wind but we did make jade jewellery mine didnt go so well and just kind of fell apart but Chris's looked really good in the end. We went to get a hole put in it so he could make a necklace for it but it snapped as it was too thin oh well kept us entertained for a few hours for free.

Next up was glacier country Frans Joseph was up first 90min walk from the car park takes you to the bottom of the glacier its been shrinking over the years but is still pretty impressive. The walk there is filled with waterfalls and rocky river beds.

We camped up on the beach that night Chris woke up early and saw dolphins swimming past the beach at sun rise.

Then just as the sun rose we were off to Lake McKenzie a mirror lake that is seen at its best in the early morning .

Fox Glacier was next  less impressive than Franz but only because the walking track was closed so we didnt get that close.

Making good time we headed to Haast the brochures say that its "a lost world that is so spectacular and remote UNESCO awarded it the status of being a "World Heritage" area." 

Well naturally we had to check it out. It is beautiful clear glacier lakes, white sandy beaches and old untouched forests with the back drop of the southern alps its definately scenic.After driving around and checking out different beaches  we were hungry. Haast as a town is tiny though so we decided to grab some lunch and keep going.

We spent the night in a DOC campsite it was nice but pretty busy we were now officially about to leave the west coast and head in land to the mountains of Wanaka. The West Coast has been everything I had hoped and so much more.