Tuesday, 28 August 2018

Wanaka, Queenstown and Fiordland

So we had conquered the west coast now it was time to head in land to Wanaka. The drive to Wanaka, wow! I'm not what you would call a natural driver never in my life have I said oh lets just go for a drive when i knew I would be the driver. But even I was enjoying this one.

The Journey



The road twists and turns through mountains past huge lakes all the way to Wanaka. Every corner is a photo opportunity. There are loads of lookout points to get those famous New Zealand shots of lake Wanaka and plenty to get out and see if you like waterfalls.







We arrived in Wanaka making good time so decided to check out the town and plan our activities for tomorrow. We saw the tree in the lake, great views of the mountains and jumped in a kayak to explore Lake Wanaka itself. There is a little island not far from shore so we jumped out and took a look around.





Wanaka is home to some really awesome walks but when we got there a weather warning of gales and rain stopped us in our tracks so never managed to get out and see any of the tracks. Maybe next time.

After a few days in Wanaka it was time to head for Queentown party capital of the South! Queenstown is a pretty small place and 1000's of backpackers fill every corner. Getting accomodation can be a challenge all year round and you suddenly find yourself in a busy place. A bit of a culture shock after having spent the last few weeks in the deserted west coast.

Winter brings the skiers to Queenstown in their 1000's and in the Summer there is no better place to party so everyone comes for the beer, atmosphere and sun.


The road to Queestown from Wanaka is challenging especially in Norman the Piza Ranges stand between us and a party in Queenstown. Norman huffs and puffs up the huge hills in first gear sometimes eek, but we make it to the top. What goes up must come down.... and it does you start to come down the Piza Ranges steeply with  sharp corners and warning signs to check your breaks at the bottom. We made it my breaks smell a bit burnt but we made it.

We decided to camp outside of the city centre the first night because with big tourisim come big prices!

It was worth it we did a cool walk, starting in the forrest, going round the lake and finishing in this little secluded bay at sunset. New Zealand is a bird paradise, they are protected and have no natural predators so the're pretty friendly and have big voices. We saw Fantails dancing and a Tui meeting (there must have been 6 Tui just singing to each other on the same branch)




Next day we were trying to adjust to the sudden cold, it was so sunny and warm on the coast but now in the mountains its cold until the sun comes up even in the summer.

So having seen some of the nature Queenstown has to offer it was time to party it would be a shame not to since we are here. We park up in the campsite in town I feel the sting in my pocket as I pay for the most expensive camping night of the whole journey.

But it is soon soothed by a beer and some laughs. We hit the town around 7pm and its a Tuesday but the town is still filled with life and drunk backpackers. There is some really cool bars we find the rum bar and try some really nice pineapple rum then off to the whiskey bar for some cocktails followed by a trip to a few bars along the street. We find our last bar of the night live music good atmosphere and we decided to do some open mic ha ha the rum is kicking in then.

We left the bar and headed back to Norman with a quick stop to Ferg Burger it is a Queenstown special and I have heard so much about it from other travellers I am keen to try it. You can queue for hours to get one during the day. But its now about 4.30am and no one is here so jackpot Ill try a Ferg after all when I am here.

Next morning a bit worse for ware I get up and make friends with our neighbours. I have finally found someone with a van older than Norman! 1988 we have a winner (Norman was 1990).

Then we are off again I am kind of poepled out now so time to retreat to the most remote parts of New Zealand Fiordland here we come.

We left Queenstown got stuck in traffic for the first 10km with road works and I knew I wanted out of civilisation for a bit.

Then peace, long roads of nothing but me, Chris, Norman and the mountains. Perfect! We arrived in Te Anau and knew that we had lots of stuff to do here so headed for the Isite to get booked up for activities.

First activity was in Te Anau itself, the glow worms. We jumped in a boat taking us across Lake Te Anau New Zealand's 2nd largest lake after the huge Lake Taupo in the North Island. Most of the lake is surrounded by Fiordland National Park and the views are amazing.






After about 40mins we have arrived at the cave. We get off the boat and walk to the briefing centre where they tell us all about the caves, worms and saftey stuff. Did you know that Glow worms only live for 48hrs after they change from larve to fully grown?

Then we head down to see our little glow in the dark buddies. You walk through caves and see the water rushing though still carving them deeper everyday. From there everyone is told its time for silence as we head deeper to the worms. A little row boat takes you from there its dark and you bump off the walls of the cave but then. Lights thousands of tint lights all around you its pretty cool.

We get time to explore the island while the 2nd group goes in to the cave and then its back to the boat and off to shore.

We have booked Milford Sound for tomorrow and we are really excited but its still 2hrs away and our boat leaves at 8.30 so we're heading up today to spend the night. The tour guide tells us its a dangerous road where drivers have to give it their full attention and its reccomeded you get the bus. But I am determined to drive this road its a must see all on its own never mind the Sound when you get there. Yes even in Norman we drove the notorious Milford Road.

We set off and its a really nice drive the first hour is quite flat and smooth, we took it slow and easy in no rush and wanting to take it all in.

The flats soon gave way to massive hills and sharp corners as we got closer. We stopped for a photo and just admired how big everything was. There is a reason its called one of their most scenic drives.




Then we were at the Homer Tunnel. Man has conquered the mountain! The Homer Tunnel is built through a mountain and is kind like the gateway to Milford Sound. Its steep and dark but a really random thing to drive through. You come down steeply and get the first views of Milford.

We stop off at various points and waterfalls along the way and then we make it to Milford. Its a really nice camp again abit pricey but you do get to spend the night in Milford Sound it doesnt get much more remote that this. The sandflys are a pain but here is the wettest place in New Zealand they are everywhere and hungry!

The next morning we head to the pier to catch our boat to Milford Sound. Its raining pretty hard and that is the best way to enjoy this part of the country the wetter the better!






There are only 4 or so permanent waterfalls in the Milford Sound but when it rains they become thousands our boat takes us under one and we get blasted by the force of the falls. Then we all get to taste some of the water.

Dolphins apear to jump around in the waves of the boat, we see seals on the rocks playing and lots of birds. We get off the boat and into some kayaks to get up close and personal with the Sound for about an hour everything about this place is huge and you feel really small in your kayak against the mountains and waterfalls.

We've seen above the water but what's below to answer that question we head to the underwater observatory to see all the fish and plants under the water its really neat.

Then its back to land and time to take the journey to Manapouri and explore Doubtful Sound.

Its an ongoing debate which is better Milford Sound or Doubtful Sound? Well we planned to find out and do both. Our friends Sam and Mandy joined us for this one a full day out on Doubtful.

It starts with a boat across Lake Manapouri the water is calm and its early so everyone settles in for a cup of tea and bacon roll at the window. Its quite windy on the top deck but that makes it more fun. Then we leave the boat and jump on buses to take us to our next boat, Doubtful Sound is not the easiest to get to.





We drive along New Zealand's most expensive road (where it is can only be reached by boat so getting here with building materials sounds pricey) From there we drive the steepest commercial road in the country I smile when I think how Norman would cope here not well I think. Aparently if a truck meets another car on this hill they have to reverse to the bottom becuase its so steep they need a clean running start to make it to the top.

Then the second boat of the day take us out to the Doubtful Sound its impressive much bigger than Milford but the mountains don't feel as high. We explore all the sound has to offer in the boat taking in waterfalls, seals, dolphins and then out to the open sea. We come back through the heart of the sound and the boat stops all engines are cut as we experience the "Sound of Silence" a minutes silence in the sound is worth it you just kind of breath it all in and feel a million miles from anything.

Then we head back to shore all pretty exhausted after our boat day out. Sam and Mandy have decided to tag along with us for a while as we head to Stewart Island we cant be that bad company after all.




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