New Zealand South Island From Picton to Able Tasmin

We have landed!

The journey looked a bit like this

As soon as we landed in Picton we wanted to get something booked for the next day. The Queen Charlotte track seemed like the place to start to see more of the beautiful Sound. We decided to do the full day walk meaning we needed to be on the boat at 8am the next morning, from there we were taken to a bird sancturary Motuara Island you walk up to the top of the island to get a birds eye view pardon the pun of the Marlabourgh Sound wow.

Then we were picked up by boat and taken the short jump to the start of the Queen Charlotte Track. Its tough but worth it. At over 15km (not including the bird sanctuary) you start the trek with a hour and a half climb it just keeps going. Dirt tracks steep hills and 30+ degree heat what a view though!

Then you start to come down you head all the way down to the first bay and then realise you have another two hills left only 10km to go. I promise the beer at the end was one of the best of my life.

Then with tired legs we took the boat back to Picton and drove the windy road to Havlock.

From there we headed for the Able Tasmin National Park. It is a really cool place marine reserves, thick forest and national park that spans as far as you can see. We were keen to get out on the water as soon as possible so hit the kayaks and went to see some seals. They are so cute there was loads of pups at this time of year taking their first swim and they didnt look to keen to take the first leap.

There is so much to see in Able Tasmin beautiful beaches, split apple rock, walks boats and wildlife

We continued to head further up the coast through golden bay and this took us to over Takaka Hill. Norman is not a hill loving van, he's more of a long straight flat kind of van so taking on mountains is always an adventure. The slow lane is my friend and I often have to pull over to let people with good cars pass me. Its sometimes so slow I swear we are going backwards. Downhill though! Colin McRae watch out here I come ha ha.

Half way up Takaka Hill is the turn off for Howards Hole. You clamber for a few kms over bolders into the forest and then get as close as you dare to the edge of the drop to the cave. There is a lookout if you take the hike to the top its a bit of a boulder clamber but really cool for epic views over the whole valley.

Getting there is interesting a winding dirt pot hole filled road snakes up a steep verge with dead drops on one side and rocks on the other. Its definately one lane well...until its not and someone is coming towards you when I passed someone there was half an inch room between my tyres and the edge.

Takaka is a small hippy town in the Golden Bay life here has its own pace and vibe. We slept under a bridge in a freedom capsite set up Norman for the night and when the farmer came round to warn us that the river (so far away from where we were and not a cloud in the sky at this point)  could flood we didnt take much notice. Lessons were learned always listen to farmers chances are they know more than you. So at 6am and almost knee deep in water we made our escape from the river.

Norman may not do great on hills but he is surprisingly good in water!

In the morning we headed for the river and some eel feeding yeah you read that right we fed and petted wild river eels and they loved it. You buy some salmon, head to the river and flick your fingers in the water and then like 30 eels apear and wiggle up on the rocks to see you and get fed. Its so strange but really fun.

and pigs they had a wee happy pig aww

This is also where I caught my first salmon as you can see it was a monster and we wrestled for hours in an epic battle to the death. Which I eventually won.

Even though its a tiddler and I have had loads of rippings for how its more like bait than salmon it tasted great you basically pay for what you catch per kg (for me this was great news advantages of the small fish) and they smoke it for you.



From there we were off to the top of the south island to see Farewell Spit and Whakari Beach. Whakari beach wins best New Zealand beach for me there were so many caves to explore we even found a huge seal sleeping in one of them so we took some photos and left him to his nap.  Quiet, soft sand, nice waves crashing next to you its a really nice spot.

The weather found us again and we stayed up here for a few days to get shelter from the storm. The rain was insane it just didnt stop. We settled in made friends with the camp locals ducks this time and three families of peacocks.

A break in the weather and we were off again and heading towards the west coast with a few quick stops on the way. First up was the sacred waters. These are the clearest waters in the world and are sacred to the Maori people.

Followed by the famous Mussel Inn the food was so good.

Then it was time to leave Able tasmin to start the next leg of the Journey the great West Coast.

New Zealand Farewell to the North!

It feels like ages since I have updated this now and as we plan to set off on our next adventure I know I need to tell you guys all about our last travel trip sorry it took so long!

At least (spoiler alert) you know its a happy ending as I am writing this safe and sound from Christchurch.


New years with good friends

So here goes rewind back to Christmas last year and we were at the Cowshed with Janette, Alan and the pups having a proper Kiwi Christmas and New Year. But all good things must come to an end so we said goodbye again and set off for Auckland on the next leg of our journey.

First it was time to let our hair down and see old friends in Auckland, a final taste of Auckland summer. We had bought tickets months ago for a Roger Waters gig and excited was an understatement. The gig was great as expected and we had a few days catching up with friends.

From there it was back to backpacker life on the road and the final farewell to the North Island just a few must dos to tick off the list. White island was first. (for everyone that gave us christmas money thank you this is what you bought us)

White Island the active volcano. It starts with a boat, the sea is choppy and its a rough ride there but fun, the sun is shining and its great just sitting on the back of the boat seeing the birds and dolphins play around you.

Then you see it New Zealand's most active cone volcano its been giving off coulds of gas for as long as anyone knows and is still going strong around 150,000 years later. The guys on the boat come round with hard hats and gas masks and you know you're close. From there you get the dingy to shore (I have no sea legs so this was erm graceful to say the least ha ha)

You make it to shore and take a walk around the craters edge some parts are so smokey your eyes sting and you need your gas mask but they give you sucky sweets to help you adjust Im not sure why it works but it does. Popping ears on planes and volcanoes is there nothing the humbel sucky sweet cannot do!

Finally lunch and a dip in the sea jumping off the boat into the clear water was great to cool off after the heat of the crater.


Then back on the road for another adventure this time in the form of lord of the rings mountain climbing as we took on the challenge of the Tongariro Crossing.

The night before we bunkered in for the night at a cool campsite or so we thought about 30mins after we arrived our camp mates arrived and they brought everyone! bugs, so many bugs, I have never seen so many bugs! we were finding them in stuff for weeks.

The next day we headed for the crossing an early rise with the sun for the epic trek ahead. Mark and Chris did the whole thing (at its higest point its 1886m) and me and a friend went water fall hunting we walked with them for the first 10km then they headed up the mountain.

Then we camped up for Chris's birthday celebrations a few friends at a campsite singing songs by the fire. There was meant to be a rare lunar blood, blue and full moon all at once but it was too cloudy to see.

And after a few rounds of goodbyes the next morning our firends were gone and we decided to sleep off the hangover in the van. Then the first storm of the year hit and with it came rain and wind, lots of it. So we had no choice but to stay put held up in the van for the next 24hrs waiting for a break in the weather. Poor Mark the tent was a bad choice that night.

As quickly as it came it was gone and that meant so were we. Packed up, a little soggy but ready to go.

Wellington was next it was going to be a long drive. We stopped for the night in a little motel place outside Wellington. A private room for the three of us for our last night together for a while seemed ideal especially when we all realised we had to empty our bags and organise our stuff. I still dont know how I manage to get so much stuff in such a small backpack but somehow I do.

The next morning it was time to say cheerio to Mark for a few months we dropped him at his hostel made sure he definately wanted to stay and then we were off. Mark worked while we did the South Island and turns out was offered a job in the South Island on a dairy farm.

For Chris and me though it was time to camp our last night in North Island it felt a bit strange thinking we would not see this island again for a long time after calling it home for the past year. The campsite took my mind off it with the best possible solution kittens so many kittens running around everywhere they were adorable. There must have been about 20 cats wandering about the camp so much cuddles were had.

Then reality hit at 3.30am alarms buzzing bleary eyed we had a ferry to catch better get going. Norman (my van) is not the quietest van so I'm sure everyone was loving me that morning trying to start him for the 6th or 7th time. He's not a morning person!

I had never driven on a car ferry before and I was not sure 4am having 3 hrs sleep was the best time to try but here we go! Also a good time to mention Norman has no power steering, and gears with a mind of there own sometimes its all part of the adventure right?

I worried for nothing it was the easiest thing ever and parked up like a pro i'll have you know.


So with Norman safely stowed below we went to check out the huge boat. It has everything tvs, food, shops, a cinema and loads of decks to get those famous photos of Marlabrough Sound. It didnt take long before things got interesting a pod of dolphins came to see us and jump around the boat. I really like dolphins and in New Zealand on most boats dolphins are around.

No sooner did I get my final glimpses of the North Island fading into the distance did we begin to see the first outline of the beautiful south. Marlabrough Sound is something else miles of mountains, forest, hills, clear water and sandy hidden bays. Dolphins, sea birds and fish play in the waves of the boat, the sun shines over head and it really looks like paradise. AND I have not even set foot on the South Island yet!

The North Island New Zealand

We have now finished traveling the North Island of New Zealand. It's been filled with adventure, new friends, great scenery and lots of laughs. We have been traveling in a campervan named Norman who is almost as old as me, has no power steering and doesn't like hills he's a real treat to drive ha ha but he gets us from A to B and a bit further. 

Leg 1

Our first leg saw us conquer the wild west coast setting off from our Auckland city apartment on the 14th August and reaching the cape on the 1st September   

The West is known for surfing and huge waves it's not called the wild coast for nothing!

First night was Piha (still technically Auckland so not too adventurous) we were going to stay on the beach by lions rock but it was closed so we stayed in the forest our first night. Three of us in a van is cosy and looking back I don't know how we lasted so long before we started using the tent as well.

From there it was one beach to the next where we went to Muriwai (black sand beach) the volcanic sand is super soft, and completely black.It was a good place to relax, build sand castles and check out the local area

From there our beach adventure took us to Shellys beach and our first free hot shower, traveling in a campervan is awesome but there is nothing quite like a hot shower most of the free ones are cold eek trust me when I say you learn to get washed pretty quickly in the winter.

From there it was off to Mosquito Bay to do some night fishing yes it lives up to its name the fish were not biting but the mossy's were

Leaving the beaches behind we took off for Port Albert (fundamentally a car park) but a free campsite nonetheless that saw us well rested for the next days drive

Then it was off to Dargaville a small little town famous for Kumera ( a bit like a cross between a potato and a sweet potato). When we got there the town was a bit bland so after speaking to some locals for good places to see when we were in the area it was off to Kai Iwi Lakes.

We spent two days here and had the whole lake to ourselves (definite benefit of traveling in the off season) Our first night we fished, hung out on the beach and caught up on some needed washing (hand washing is not so bad once you get used to it) We also met Peggy a one legged bird that liked to be fed and had the best sympathy act I have ever seen. (Peggy was the fattest bird on the lake even with one leg) I also met my first cockroach, roaches like to hang out in warm, damp places so you often share the bathroom with some extra little quests but they are harmless.

The second night at the lakes was one of the best we spent on the west coast. A huge storm came in from the sea but the sky above us was starry and clear. We were able to lay on the grass watching the stars and the lightning as the storm traveled over the whole of Northland.

It was time to leave the lakes and continue north to Tāne Mahuta or lord of the forest New Zealand's largest Kauri tree and the four sisters other giant Kauri

From there we headed for Opononi home of Opo the dolphin we stayed a few hours and got great views of the bay from the top of the hill where we stopped for lunch.

Then we went to the Cowshed a place that became home for longer than anyone planned but where we met Janette and Alan our now adopted kiwi parents we stayed here for 2 nights to get out of the rain and tested out the hot springs at Naghwa. There are 12 natural hot springs at different temperatures caused by the volcanic activity below you. Again Naghwa turned out to be a place of mixed feelings for me when we came back.

Then it was off to the forest again at Raetea the road is crazy but worth it were drove over several mountains and along some winding gravel roads until we found our camp and our first double rainbow through the mountains.

Staying with the forest walks and nature we traveled further north to Puketi Forest another interesting road but our first chance to have a campfire most of New Zealand has a fire ban but this campsite allowed small campfires. Warm, sort of dry and well slept we were ready for the North.

Kaitaia is your last taste of civilisation before you head to the cape, we stopped to stock up on supplies and took on the trek to the top. First up was Cape Reinga the very tip of the North Island its a very spiritual place for Maori who believe the spirit goes here before leaving for the after life there is a spirit tree that acts as a marker for spirits and guides them to their resting place. The tasman sea and pacific ocean meet here which is cool to see and a lighthouse signals you have reached the end of the world.

Our first few nights took us to Tapotopotu a campsite in the valley. With some great sunshine all around us in the subtropical north we stayed a few extra days. Taking advantage of the weather we went sand surfing at Te Paki. Sand surfing is a lot of fun you climb up huge dunes and bodyboard down at high speed.

Then it was off to spirits bay for the night more fishing and beach to be had and one of the best sunsets we have seen so far.

Leg 2 

As they say what goes up must come down so we started our journey south down the stunning east coast famous for wildlife, boat tours and white sandy beach our little slice of paradise

First up was Doubtless Bay white sand, great beach and never ending coast line. We stayed at an Olive Grove it the pouring rain meaning we pretty much had to camp next to the guys garage so after not such a glamorous night we continued south to see more beach as we followed the coast.



We then cut inland at Kerikeri to see the Wairere boulders the only eroded basalt rocks in the world

From there tired and ready for some relaxation we headed back to the Cowshed and the hot springs. However this time the happy Kaikohe vibe was ruined by me throwing my back out at the hot springs and ending up unable to move for 3 weeks. The owners were lovely and offered to take care of me until I got back on my feet. The boys worked on the farm and I slept in the barn with a family of possums. The first few days we stayed with a Maori family in town then spent the next 5 weeks at the Cowshed with Janette and Alan and of course the stars of the show Ceasar and Lucy (the dogs)

Then it was time to say goodbye to our new friends and head south once again.

Leg 3

This part of the journey saw our luck return! From the Cowshed we drove to Whangarei the home of Lion Man the TV show and Whangarei falls. Sitting in a car park campsite I called in a favour and we managed to get a batch on the beach in Coromandel from an old work mate of mine. For the next week we lived in luxury in a beautiful holiday home. We adventured around the Coromandel to hot water beach where you dig a hole and get your own little spa and Cathedral Cove a must see in New Zealand.

After a quick week we were on the road again to Tauranga where we climbed Mt Maunganui 232 meters later and more steps than you can count we reached the summit   what a view definitely worth the sweat.

Then we headed for Rotorua and to meet old friends from the Queen's birthday weekend road trip. Boozy nights and a lot of laughs were had by all then we headed to see Wai O Tapu thermal park

Leaving Rotorua we headed to Tapo home of New Zealand's biggest lake at  616 km² its quite the sight 

From Taupo it was time to take on the Forgotten highway 150 km of well nothing just hills, crazy roads and a town called Whangamomona which is recognised one day a year as its own country you get a stamp in your passport in the local pub when you arrive at "customs". Their current prime minister is a poodle it used to be a goat but after eating some poisonous weeds he died (assassination attempt ha ha)

We made it through the highway and ended in Stratford sadly Norman (the van) did not make it we blew a head gasket and fried our radiator ops and had to get towed. So we spent the week in Stratford while Norman was getting back on track. Stratford is a Shakespeare town everyday at 1, 3, 5, 7pm the clock plays romeo and Juliet its fun the first time! and all the streets has a shakespeare theme. It was however at the foot of Mt Taranaki



So broke and with Norman fixed at last we needed to stop for work so back towards Auckland we went up the west coast

Leg 4

A quick trip to New Plymouth then up to Te Kuiti where we spent the night in Piopio forest through Hamilton and on to Mangere where we spent the night at Ambury Park. 

A last hurrah of animal cuddles awaited us on the farm with the friendliest goats, sheep, pigs and chickens. 

Then it was time to go back to work. I got my old job back in Auckland and moved in with a woman from work. Sue and Brian were amazing and really made me feel part of the family so did Cookie the dog. We had our own pool and the boys found work on a Kiwi orchard not far from our house so we could see each other at weekends. 

Just before I left I was invited to a family birthday where we had a pig on a spit and more meat than anyone could eat a great setting on Waiheke Island with some really lovely people. 

Before we knew it we were ready to leave Auckland again and return to the Cowshed for Christmas it was nice to have a family Christmas and a New Year with friends from Auckland who came up for the weekend. 

So today is my last day in the Cowshed and we are getting ready to go back to Auckland for a Pink Floyd gig then it's time to conquer the South Island and do it all again. 

We have already booked our flight across the southern alps and glaciers and I can't wait to see what the south has to offer